Sunday, April 26, 2009
piglets sleeping in the sun
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Culinary communion charcuterie class
I'm not a fanatic about this -- it has to taste good, too.
So this is the first piece of kitchen equipment that I really liked. It's a huge steam kettle that both allows you to draw liquid off the bottom, for stocks or broth or whatever, and tilts so you can empty it. It holds...50 gallons?
The class started with a half a pig laying on the table. Pink, with the USDA slaughter marks stamped on it, it was a duroc/hampshire off of the farm that Gabriel Claycamp is now a part owner of. For me it was interesting to look at because i don't often deal with USDA slaughtered animals; most of my sales are custom slaughter. So they do things like trim the eyelids off, and they seemed to have hacked the feet with a knife a lot, which I couldn't really figure out. No matter.
So we hacked the pig apart into the primal cuts. The top of the shoulder went into roasts to be cured as copa, the ribs were filleted out to allow us to use the side of the pig, the front leg boned and cubed, the ham carefully cut off under Gabriels' direction. The class materials has some diagrams of this, but it's difficult to do this from a black and white diagram or even a black and white photograph. The overall procedure was different than American butchery that I've done in the past -- basically we removed the legs and deboned the carcass with an hour of knife work.
The head, feet, kidneys and the entire skeleton were put into that huge steam kettle along with orange zest, leeks, celery and various other spices, and the whole lot was simmered for the rest of the day, resulting in this:
You can see the head of the pig in the center, and a rib bone, and various cooked vegetables. So the process from here for making Coppa Di Testa is to pick the meat off the bones, separate out the pig snout and ears and slice them thin, discard the vegges, place into a turine, refrigerate while being pressed. I liked the idea of this dish because it uses the meat from the entire pig head. Unfortunately for me we didn't finish this dish during the class, so I can't tell you how it might taste.
Here we're working on the Cotechino, a larger sausage that includes the skin of the pig. This is pretty cool for me because the skin isn't an ingredient that I've used before. The tray in the center is trimmed bits of pork skin, so the first thing you do is scrape most of the fat off the skin.
this is the bulk of the material, ready for grinding. The skin on the left, the cubed pork shoulder on the right.
You grind all of the ingredients through a medium plate, here's the skin.
It has an interesting texture to it. It's a little springy and rubbery. When you put your hand into it it feels a little like tapioca. At this point I'm curious what it'll taste like.
You grind the skin, mix it with the rest of the ingredients, and then grind it again through a medium plate, and then toss the whole thing into a mixer and mix it for 5 minutes or so to get the right consistency. Then you cook a little piece of it as a final check of seasoning, and then load it into a sausage stuffer -- pictured below. I've been using my kitchenaide mixer attachment. This one made 15lbs of sausage go in 10 minutes.
The finished sausages are on the pan. Here the casings are being threaded onto the spigot for the sausage stuffer.
We made other fresh sausages as well, here's bratwurst, but I've done a lot of fresh sausages so this part wasn't very interesting. They're pretty, though.
Each of the two days of the class ended with a meal based on some of the items that we'd prepared. Here's the upstairs kitchen of Culinary Communion.
A good way to spend a weekend.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Yes, I sell pigs
"Hi. I saw your sign on the highway, the one that says weaner pigs. Do you sell weaner pigs?"
Yes, I do. I've got 20 to choose from right now. Want to come and look at them?
"Yes... but how big are they?"
They range in weight from about 20lbs to about 80lbs.
"what's the smallest one you've got?"
Um... well, i have some that are not weaned yet, those weigh about 6-7lbs now.
"how big do they get? We want one that won't get too big"
ah... I don't think I can help you. My pigs are supposed to get really big and delicious. In fact, if you buy one of them, and feed it what it wants, you'll have a 300lb pig in 6-7 months.
"that's too big. do you have a smaller one?"
Nope. you're right though about that being a big pig. The worst part is that they hog the couch.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
The herd of tiny pigs
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
The medium sized pig herd
The whole time I was working with the medium sized pigs the boar was standing abosolutely still watching. He's about 200 feet away. He is much bigger than my dog. He's just much farther away.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
The pinball pen
We have four pinball pens, to accomodate different litters and sizes. Each one is 20x20, and has an metal feed bin and an automatic waterer. For the smaller piglets who haven't figured out the waterer, I put in a rubber bowl and drip a hose into it. So every pig has all the food and water it can eat.
The basic elements of this pen can be seen in the picture above. It has a 36" woven wire fence, and an inner electric fence. The outer fence prevents the piglets from taking a good running start and running through the electric. If they do that, they hit the woven fence, and are held there as they get shocked a few times. Usually you'll have one piglet do this, and the other ones watch it squeal and decide as a group that that's not a good time. The first few times they get shocked they pretty much shriek. EEEEEK! EEEEK! So do I, when I get shocked by the fence. I get shocked once or twice a week. Guess I'm a slow learner. Both the inner and outer fence are on 4' T posts that I salvaged from a highway project. They were throwing away thousands of them in a dumpster, so I dove in and pulled out 3,000 fence posts. I figure i have a lifetime supply. Such tremendous waste.
The white dome is a really a calf dome, used for raising calves, but in this case they're tough, relatively cheap shelter. We bed this calf shelter with 6-8 bales of hay, so the hay inside is at least a foot or two deep.
Welcome to the earth
I've found it easier transition if I put an older, experienced piglet or two in with the new litter. The older pigs know where to sleep, where to eat, and how to drink, so they show the new pigs pretty quickly how it works. Later I'll remove the older pigs. Here, the new pigs are slowly exploring the new space. This is the first time these pigs have been on any sort of dirt -- the farm I purchased this group from raised them on concrete.
Here the bravest pig of the new group says hello to the older piglets -- who have figured out that the hay is pretty darn comfortable, and were snoozing before I pulled up in the tractor.
Later that evening i went back and put every pig into the shelter. Once they've spent the night in comfort they'll find their way back. Pigs like to sleep in groups -- warmer for everyone. The original pigpile.